The road between Ura and Limithang in eastern Bhutan: 2

Ura via Thrumsing La to Sengor (altitude 3,100-3,760-3,050 m)
Leaving behind the relatively dry Ura Valley, one ascends through forests of gigantic firs, often with an understorey of rhododendron. The road for a few kilometres is precipitous in the extreme, with steep drops that reveal a landscape defying description, until the pass at Thrumsing La is finally reached. The urge to press on quickly to Thrumsing La should be contained as the forests along this section of the road hold much promise but are rarely worked. In early spring they are often partially blanketed in snow. Consequently, spotting coveys of the striking and, here, relatively confiding Blood Pheasant Ithaginis cruentus is fairly easy. Occasionally Wallcreepers Tichodroma muraria shuffle across a rock face or fly out over the void, displaying their unmistakable flight pattern. Look too for accentors foraging at the side of the road, especially Alpine Prunella collaris, Altai P. himalayana and occasionally Robin Accentors P. rubeculoides. Spotted Nutcrackers Nucifraga caryocatactes are constant companions in these forests but the spectacular Collared Grosbeak Mycerobas affinis is much less predictable. Sometimes they are seemingly absent whilst at other times they occur in great gold-and-black flocks.

From Bhutan's highest road-pass the road descends to the village of Sengor which, on clear days, can be seen through the trees, a tiny settlement of shingle roofs and lush fields. But don't rush! This is home to one of these mountains' most special birds, the Himalayan Monal Lophophorus impejanus. Much less confiding than the Blood Pheasant they are nevertheless seen regularly here, quietly digging for tubers in the patches left by melted snow. Sibilant chattering notes will attract your attention and lead you to your first mixed tit flock. A major feature of these high-elevation forests, the flocks contain as many as five species of tits including Rufous-vented Parus rubidiventris, Coal P. ater, Grey-crested P. dichrous, Green-backed P. monticolus and, only occasionally in such a rarified atmosphere, Yellow-browed Tits Sylviparus modestus. Such activity draws a number of travelling companions, including White-browed Fulvettas Alcippe vinipectus, Ashy-throated Phylloscopus maculipennis and Lemon-rumped Warblers P. chloronotus and Green-tailed Sunbirds Aethopyga nipalensis. With luck one of these flocks may include a stunning male Fire-tailed Sunbird A. ignicauda. Emerging into the welcome sunlight that Sengor brings, look out for rock-strewn fields for they are not what they seem: flocks of up to 100 handsome Snow Pigeons Columba leuconota regularly feed here. If you are lucky you may also find them roosting under an overhanging cliff along the road, just below the village.

Spotted
Laughing-
thrush,
(Tim Loseby)

Sengor to the Namling 'Death Drop' (altitude 3,050-2,400 m)
Before continuing on, stop in Sengor for a cup of traditional suja, a concoction of tea, butter-milk and salt. Just witnessing the way it is made is an event in itself!

Several switch-backs below Sengor bring you to an ideal campsite, set in the last open field worthy of the name, well before the bottom of the valley is reached which is still many hours driving away. With views of seemingly endless ridges of untouched forests, lit up by flowering magnolias and rhododendrons and entranced by bird song, this is truly the place to spend the night. The hills reverberate to the calls of hill partridges Arborophila spp. and Oriental Skylarks Alauda gulgula. Just a switch-back up the road and with luck, you should find a pair of Spotted Laughingthrushes Garrulax ocellatus. A pair of these stunning birds has been present at this spot every year that I have visited Bhutan.

The little known Bar-winged Wren Babbler Spelaeornis troglodytoides, an attractive bamboo specialist, only occurs at high elevations, just below Sengor. Despite its distinctive song this is the only site in Bhutan at which I have encountered this species. Check the bamboo-covered, almost vertical, rock faces alongside the road c. 1 km below Sengor as at least four pairs are in residence here. Other mouth-watering species you may encounter include: Satyr Tragopan Tragopan satyra; Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius - a moderately common resident; Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler Xiphirhynchus superciliaris; Fire-tailed Myzornis Myzornis pyrrhoura - one of the most desirable of the Himalayan specialities, it seems to be nowhere common throughout its range, although the upper elevations of this road appear to be a more reliable site than most. Just walking this road, with its ever-unfolding vistas of forest waiting to be explored, and dramatic lighting patterns as great shafts of sunlight rupture passing storm clouds, leaves an indelible image on the memory.

| Ura to Limithang in Bhutan: 3 |