The road between Ura and Limithang in eastern Bhutan: 1by K. David Bishop, from OBC Bulletin 29, May 1999.
I first explored Bhutan in 1994, and since then I have returned each spring, to lead bird tours for Victor Emanuel Nature Tours. The sheer unadulterated beauty and pristine nature of this country, with seemingly endless forests, draws one ever onward. The fascinating and relatively unaffected cultures and, perhaps above all, an opportunity to experience a small window into what the majority of the Himalayas must once have looked and sounded like, are just some of the factors that make Bhutan such a very special place. Despite Bhutan's small size, over 600 species have been recorded from the Kingdom, including nearly 70 which have been added during the last ten years. And what fun it has been to be one of the few to visit the country and document some of these additions. Several other species may eventually be found, including such sought-after 'myths' as Wedge-billed Wren Babbler Sphenocichla humei and Rufous-bellied Shortwing Brachypteryx hyperythra. Of Bhutan's 614 species, 16 are listed as Threatened and 31 Near-threatened by Collar et al. (1) and Bhutan is one of the best places to see some of them. Although the country does not host any endemic species of its own, it lies within the Eastern Himalayas Endemic Bird Area (as classified by BirdLife International) and harbours at least 12 'Restricted Range' species.
Bhutan may be small, but within its borders is an extraordinary range of habitats: from some of the Himalaya's most extensive and least disturbed subtropical forests, upwards through truly exquisite warm and, at higher elevations, cool broadleaved forests to towering evergreen forests of fir, hemlock and spruce. The Eastern Himalayas are notably moister and much warmer than areas further to the west and, as a consequence, the tree-line occurs at a much higher elevation; c. 4,250 m vs c. 3,330 m. Above the tree-line are extensive alpine pastures which from late spring to early autumn present one of the great botanical spectacles on our planet. The entire country is bisected by a well-maintained paved road, permitting relatively easy access to habitats from 150 to 3,750 m. This extraordinary feat of engineering extends northwards from Phuntsholing in the south-west, on the border with India's Jalpaiguri district, to Paro and Thimphu. There the road turns eastwards at a mid-point in the country over a series of high passes via the fortified town of Tongsa, with its spectacular hanging Dzong, to the relatively highly populated town of Tashigang. The route continues south past the university town of Sherubtse and descends the Himalayas in a series of breathtakingly dizzy slopes to the border town of Somdrup Jonkhar and, once again, the plain of the Brahmaputra valley. One of the features of Bhutan is that birding, especially in mid to late spring (late March to mid-May), is good virtually anywhere below 3,030 m. Unlike many parts of Asia one is not obliged to seek out a park or reserve or remnant patch of 'good-looking' habitat, since any stop, even in the midst of farmland, can produce exciting birds. Notwithstanding, the mixed broadleaved forests are much richer, and therefore more exciting, than the rather slow-going monotypic stands of blue pine and, particularly, chir pine. Clearly the former is the habitat upon which to focus one's efforts. Fortunately the very best and most accessible area of mixed broadleaved forest can be found along the road between Ura and Limithang (henceforth referred to as the Limithang Road) in eastern Bhutan. This, in my opinion, is one of the most exciting birding sites in Asia! From Thrumsing La (= pass) at 3,750 m the Limithang Road descends through a seemingly unending series of loops and switch-backs that take one through some of the most awe-inspiring, forest-clad slopes to be found anywhere in the Himalayas. Driving here is not for the faint-hearted and the Namling 'Death Drop' has to be witnessed to be believed! This incredible road presents an unparalleled opportunity to bird what would otherwise be impossibly steep slopes. Fortunately, nearly the entire stretch of road and its surrounding forests are incorporated in the Thrumsing La National Park. Approximately 240 species of birds have been recorded along the road and it is likely that many more species will be added to this list as more birders visit the area and visits are undertaken at different times of the year. To date observations cover the months of late February to mid-June with one visit in October. |
