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Bach Ma National Park, Vietnam: 2

Conservation issues affecting Bach Ma
Following the reunification of Vietnam in 1975, logging by state forest enterprises saw the removal of most of the commercially valuable timber in the park during the ensuing ten years. Illegal harvesting of forest products has continued and regular fires inhibit the regeneration of logged areas. Although the park is home to only 65 households (4) the park buffer zone supports a population of over 61,000 people (2). Collection of forest products, exhausted near to the villages, is a major source of income for families living in the buffer zone and exploitation of these products is occurring at unsustainable levels.

In order to extend the conservation coverage of the national park, Birdlife International together with the Forest Inventory and Planning Institute (FIPI) proposed a 22,500 ha extension to the east. The exact boundaries of the extension have yet to be defined but it is likely to include all or part of the Hai Vai Pass area with its cultural and historical sites.

Birding in Bach Ma national park
April through to July are the best times to visit, before the rains kick in at the beginning of September. From September onwards conditions can be very unpleasant with cool temperatures, high winds, heavy rain and very muddy conditions underfoot. During this time, leeches are out in force along the forest trails. The early spring from January to March is cool with continuous drizzle and sometimes heavy rain.


Coral-billed
Ground-Cuckoo
(Jonathan Eames)

The best birding is along the surfaced road winding up to the summit from the park guesthouse and on the various trails which are sign-posted off this road. Several of the trails lead to waterfalls and streams and with luck Blyth's Kingfisher and Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus can be found. Along the roadsides in the vicinity of the guesthouse is a good place to look out for Silver Pheasant in the early morning or late afternoon. Foraging parties of Striated Yuhina Yuhina castaniceps are a common sight among the roadside trees and bushes and Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea, Mountain Fulvetta Alcippe peracensis, White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca, White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis, Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus, Puff-throated Bulbul Alophoixus pallidus and White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis can usually be easily observed from the road. It is worth checking out the small streams that trickle out from either side of the road at various points for Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus as well as Streaked Wren Babbler Napothera brevicaudata skulking among the roadside rocks. Looking skywards as you follow the road to the summit a Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis may be seen circling over the treetops. Rachet-tailed Treepie, with its distinctive barbed tail, is fairly common at Bach Ma and can sometimes be encountered along the unmarked forest trails that lead into the forest near the large concrete sign about a kilometre below the summit. This can also be a good area to look for Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger and White-gorgetted Flycatcher Ficedula monileger among others.

Before leaving Bach Ma look out for the Tri Sao Trail, or Pheasant Trail, sign-posted halfway down the road between the guesthouse and park headquarters. This well maintained trail is a good place to look for the Crested Argus, or Tri Sao as it is known locally, although it is more often heard than seen. If you have no luck on the Tri Sao Trail you can always check out the captive Crested Argus kept in an aviary near to the headquarters building.

Access and facilities
To get to BMNP it is either a 45 km drive south from Hue or a 65 km drive north over the Hai Van Pass from Danang. It is in theory possible to get a local bus from Hue or Danang and to be dropped off at the town of Cau Hai on Highway 1 at the turn off to Bach Ma. From here take a motorbike taxi to the park headquarters another 3 km up the road. However, without a knowledge of Vietnamese and a good idea of where you are going, this is not recommended. If you want to be sure of arriving at the right place it is better to either hire a car with driver or motorbike taxi from Hue or Danang to take you to the park. Once at the headquarters transport can be arranged to take you to the guesthouse. Motorbikes, other than those of the park rangers, are not allowed inside the park.

The guesthouse facilities are 17 km from the park entrance and headquarters and 3 km from the summit. The two main buildings are the renovated former police station and colonial police chief's villa on the opposite side of the road. Various-sized rooms are available here, some with en suite facilities, others with rather basic outdoor washrooms. There is a large canteen, where simple Vietnamese food, beer, mineral water and soft drinks can be ordered. Electricity is provided by a generator from 6 pm to 10 pm. At the time of writing (March 2001) the facilities are undergoing major renovation and ten of the ruined colonial villas are to be restored this year. There are also plans to completely renovate the former Morin Hotel just below the summit. Whether this will be good or bad news for visiting birders remains to be seen!

Accommodation should always be booked in advance if possible, especially at weekends during the summer months. For reservations call +84 54 871330/871328/871528 or fax +84 54 871328. Park guides can be hired if booked in advance with the headquarters. Ask for Minh, who speaks good English and can point you in the right direction to look for some of the local goodies.

Acknowledgements
Many thanks to Birdlife International Vietnam Programme for their assistance in preparing this article.

References

  1. Eve, R. (1996) Birdlist of Bach Ma National Park. Hue: WWF/EC Bach Ma National Park Project.
  2. WWF/EC (1997) Proposed second revision of the Bach Ma National Park management plan. Hue: WWF/EC Bach Ma National Park Project.
  3. Huynh Van Keo (2000) White-crest Grey Pheasant is found at Bach Ma National Park. Lam Nghiep (Vietnam Forest Review) January/February 2000: 39-40. (In Vietnamese).
  4. Gilmour, D.A. and Nguyen Van San (1999) Buffer zone management in Vietnam. Hanoi: IUCN Vietnam.

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