Birdwatching in Taiwan: 3
To reach Meifeng and Tsuifeng from Taichung, take the
Nantou Bus Co bus to Puli and from there the same company operates via
Wushe to Tsuifeng; alight at Meifeng (about 90 minutes from Puli). There
is limited accommodation at the Meifeng Mountain Farm (Ching Ching Farm),
so reservations are needed; contact National Taiwan University Agriculture
InstituteAssociated Mountain Experimental Farm at 886-2-2803148. There
are also hotels in Wushe and Fushih (Lushan). There are two very obvious
forestry trails leading off Highway 14 between Meifeng and Tsuifeng (altitude
2,100-2,200m) into the Reiyenshi Reserve. The first, the Rueiyan River
Forest Road, is about 30 minutes walk from the farm; both follow the
contour of west-facing hill slopes and are good for the pheasants and
Taiwan Partridge. About 120 species have been recorded including White-browed
Bush Robin Tarsiger indicus, Collared Bush Robin T. johnstoniae,
Pygmy Wren Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla, Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba
pulchricollis, White-throated Laughingthrush and Rusty Laughingthrush.
The enigmatic Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus is also found
here.
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Collared
Bush Robin
(Wen-Hsin Huang) |
While in the Puli area, another site for the Taiwan Blue Magpie
and the rather
local Varied Tit Parus varius is the Huisun National Forest Recreation
Area (altitude 2502,000 m) located near Ren-ai village. It is part of
Chung Hsing Universitys experimental farm; room and board may be reserved
at the
ecological vacation village contact Huisun Farm 886-49-2942000. The website has
an English section giving bus times from Puli etc. By car from Taipei use
Highway 3 to Tsaotun (Tsautun); leave here via Highway 14 and go to Kuohsing
(Kuoshin)
to access the area. From Puli follow Highway 21 to Kuohsing. Other species
recorded here include Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis, Mountain
Scops Owl Otus
spilocephalus, Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulata, Collared Finchbill Spizixos
semitorques and Hwamei Garrulax canorus.
Finding the Fairy Pitta
The globally threatened Fairy Pitta is a spring and summer visitor
that breeds in moist lowland broadleaf forest and bamboo below 1,000 m.
The area around Yunlin Countys Huben Village (IBA17), altitude
500 m, holds the largest known present-day breeding population and
offers a very good chance of seeing the species. Much of the habitat is
secondary forest, bamboo, betel nut plantation and orchard. Huben is located
in Linnei Township and reached from Taipei by taking the northsouth Expressway
to the Touliu (Douliu) exit (about 50 km south of Taichung); turn north
on Highway 3 and head for Linnei. It is about 30 minutes by car to the
village from the exit. Linnei is also easily reached from Puli via Highway
21 past Sun Moon Lake and then on Highway 16 to Highway 3. A stay of two
days is recommended and accommodation is easy to arrange, thanks to the
conservation consciousness in this community. Malayan Night Heron also
breeds here and is often seen; other good species include Taiwan Blue Magpie,
Taiwan Partridge, Swinhoes Pheasant, White-eared Sibia Heterophasia
auricularis, and Maroon Oriole.
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Taiwan
Barwing
(Wen-Hsin Huang) |
In Taoyuan County, the 10,000 hectare Shihmen Reservoir located
on the upper reaches of the Dahan River is another Fairy Pitta breeding
area. The forests along the public roads around the lake are dense,
and the dark, moist trails are good spots to look for feeding birds.
Buses
from Taoyuan and Hsinchu go to the reservoir, which is adjacent to
Highway 3. There are hotels and cabins in the area (contact the Shihmen
Reservoir
Scenic Area 886-3-4712247). Avoid the area at weekends and holidays
when it is busy with local tourists.
Rare water birds on Taiwans west coast
The western coastline consists mostly of sandy estuaries and
sandy beaches. The abundant organisms found in the inter-tidal zone
attract
large flocks of migrant and wintering shorebirds and waterfowl. Tainan
plays host to the largest global wintering flock of Black-faced Spoonbills.
Every winter Saunders's Gulls appear on coastal fishponds and Chinese
Crested Tern, recently rediscovered breeding on the Matsu island
group off the Chinese coast, is reported on Taiwans west coast. Driving
along the coastal Highway 17 between Taichung and Tainan is
an excellent way to look for migrant and wintering shorebirds. About
100 species have been recorded here, including annual records of
Saunders's Gulls and Chinese Crested Terns. Other species of interest
include
Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus, Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila
clanga and Slaty-backed Gull Larus schistisagus. This
section of coastline is about 150 km long. There is no regular transport
service,
but cars or motorcycles may be rented in Taichung or Tainan. To travel
the entire coastal highway takes about three hours, but waterbird
enthusiasts may find a four-day stay rewarding. Taichung, Tainan
and the nearby
smaller towns have a wide choice of accommodation and eating-places;
advance reservations are not required. As there are few eating-places
along the coastal highway itself, visitors are advised to take their
own daytime provisions. Tainan's Tsengwen (Zengwen) River
Estuary is the wintering site
of more than 50% of the global population of Black-faced Spoonbill.
The site is part of IBA 27 that also covers an important area to the
north
of the Tsengwen River tidal flats used by the spoonbills to feed and
roost. The area consists mostly of estuarine sandflats, tidally flooded
land, fishponds, agricultural land, and windbreak casuarina forest.
Falcated Duck Anas falcata, Baikal Teal, Black Stork Ciconia
nigra,
Oriental Stork, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper Calidris acuminata, and
Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta, are among the species recorded
in the area. Private transport is required to drive around the maze
of narrow roads between the fishponds and on the levees to get the
best
from the area, but care is needed as there are many dead ends and few
passing places. The spoonbill site may be reached by public transport
from Tainan Railway Station by taking the Tainan Bus Co bus to Jioukuaicuo.
From here follow first the Jioukuaicuo levee and then the Nanti levee
for around 8 km; on foot, it takes around 2 hours. There is lodging
and food in this area, but prior reservation is necessary. Sitsao
Wildlife Refuge (IBA 29), an area of saltpans and pools on the
south bank of the Tsengwen, is also used by the spoonbills and may
be accessed
via Tainan city. Hulupi (IBA 28), an area of land used to cultivate
water chestnut and the last site for Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus
chirurgus in Taiwan, lies 30 km north of Tainan and may be reached
from either Highway 1 or Highway 19.
Behind the mountains: the east coast and the southern tip
Taitung
and Kenting
Taitung on the south-east coast, the starting point for trips to Lanyu
(Orchid Island), is the main town in Taitung County, the most remote and
relatively undisturbed part of the island and well worth a visit during a
two- or three-week
stay. The flight time from Taipei is about one hour and transport may be
hired on arrival. There is plenty of choice of accommodation and eating-places
in
Taitung and in the hot-spring resort of Chihpen further down the coast.
On the western side of Taitung County, the Central Mountain Range rises
to 3,600 m, while on the east lies the lower coastal range. The narrow
East Rift Valley between them is a stronghold of Styans Bulbul. About
370 bird species have been recorded in the county, including all the
endemics and about 40 of the endemic subspecies and, thanks to the relative
lack of disturbance, Swinhoes Pheasant and Mikado Pheasant are widespread
at mid-elevations. Rare birds found in the mountains include Black Eagle,
Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis, and Tawny Fish Owl Ketupa
flavipes. Access is by the forest roads (up to 50 km long) that run
west steeply into the mountains, but some are impassable after a few
km except on foot, so that food and shelter must be carried, and not
all roads are open to the public. The Lijia, Wulu and Chihpen roads are
good choices. It is possible to drive south from Chihpen and cross the
island to reach the southern tip at Kenting (See Raptor watching
in Taiwan).There may be discoveries to be made in the area; Whistling
Green Pigeon Treron formosae can still be seen, notably at Sheding
Nature Park in Kenting National Park, while Japanese Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone
atrocaudata and Brown-eared Bulbul Ixos amaurotis may still
cling on. The seldom-seen Black-chinned Fruit Dove Ptilinopus leclancheri has
also been reported recently in Pintung County.
Lanyu (Orchid Island)
Lanyu is a small (46 km2) mountainous tropical island in the Pacific
Ocean about 60 km south-east of Taitung. It is an interesting trip
for those with plenty of time, but no more than a two-night stay should
be needed to see the important species. The climate is tropical with
high temperatures and high rainfall. The scenery is spectacular including
the volcanic rocky reef-strewn coastline, terraced taro fields and
the concealed tropical forests of the central mountain area. The inhabitants
are indigenous people of the Tao (Yami) tribe, more closely related
to the Philippines and Pacific nations. A ferry operates from Taitungs
Fugang Fishing Harbour on Tuesdays and Fridays, taking about four hours.
Tickets should be purchased in advance as the island is a popular tourist
destination. The daily flights by eight-seat light plane from Taitung
take 30 minutes. They are often full and should also be pre-booked.
Accommodation may be booked in advance. There is public transport that
may be flagged down at any point on the 40 km long road round the periphery
of the island, and scooters may be hired. Of 180 species recorded,
about 50 are resident; the island is an obvious place to look for migrants
in season. The most important residents are Elegant Scops Owl Otus
elegans and Brown Cuckoo Dove Macropygia amboinensis; both
are only found here and easy to see. Brown-eared Bulbul and Japanese
Paradise-flycatcher are common, unlike on the mainland where they may
have died out. Likewise the Whistling Green Pigeon is much easier
to find here than in mainland Pintung County.
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Taiwan
Yuhina
(Wen-Hsin Huang) |
Appendix
Brief data on the Taiwanese endemics
Taiwan Partridge Arborophila crudigularis Common resident found in undergrowth
of low- to mid-elevation thick evergreen broadleaf forests (700-2,000 m).
Swinhoe's Pheasant Lophura swinhoii Uncommon resident, found in
the undergrowth of low- to mid-elevation natural broadleaf forests (500-2,000
m).
Mikado Pheasant Syrmaticus mikado Uncommon resident, found in
the undergrowth of mid-elevation natural broadleaf forests of central
Taiwan
(2,000-3,000 m).
Taiwan Blue Magpie Urocissa caerulea Uncommon resident
found in mid- to upper levels of low-elevation broadleaf forests
(400-1,000m).
Taiwan Whistling Thrush Myophonus insularis Common
resident throughout Taiwan from plains to mid-elevation
mountain areas near streams and within forests (200-2,000
m).
Collared Bush Robin Tarsiger johnstoniae Common
resident found in the undergrowth and thickets of mid-
to high-elevation open woodlands and areas with large
trees in central Taiwan (2,000-3,200 m).
Yellow Tit Parus holsti Uncommon resident, found
in the canopy of mid-elevation broadleaf forests of central
Taiwan (1,000-2,200 m).
Flamecrest Regulus goodfellowi Common resident
found in mid- to high-elevation coniferous and mixed
broadleaf-coniferous
forests of central Taiwan (1,000-3,000 m).
Styan's Bulbul Pycnonotus taivanus Common but
declining resident, restricted to eastern and southern
Taiwan; found
in the cultivated plains of Pingtung County, gardens,
urban parks and low-altitude broadleaf forest (sea level-1,000
m).
Taiwan Bush Warbler Bradypterus alishanensis Common
resident found in open scrub and grass clumps in mid-
to high-altitude forest (2,000-3,200m).
White-whiskered Laughingthrush Garrulax morrisonianus Common
resident found in thick undergrowth and scrub of high-elevation
forests of central Taiwan (2,000-3,500 m).
Steere's Liocichla Liocichla steerii Common resident
found in roadside bushes and grassy scrub of mid- to
high-elevation forests (2,000-3,500 m).
Taiwan Barwing Actinodura morrisoniana Uncommon
resident found in mid-levels of central Taiwans mid-
to high-elevation broadleaf forests and mixed broadleafconiferous
forests. Mostly eats arthropods obtained by probing the
bark of trunks and branches (1,300-2,500 m).
White-eared Sibia Heterophasia auricularis Common resident found in mid-
to upper levels of mid-elevation natural broadleaf forests, but sometimes
at low altitude in winter (<1,000-2,200 m).
Taiwan Yuhina Yuhina brunneiceps Common resident found in mid- to
upper levels of mid-elevation coniferous and mixed broadleaf coniferous
forests (1,000-2,200 m).
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