Birdwatching in Taiwan: 2
If time allows the Taipei City Waterbird Refuge (IBA 4) may be
visited during the same outing. This site on the Tanshui and Hsindian
(Hsintien) Rivers lies between the Chunghsing bridge in the north and
the Huachung bridge to the south and also extends from the latter bridge
upstream on the Hsindian River to the Yungfu bridge. About 120 species
have been recorded in the area, including Chinese Egret, whilst Baikal
Teal Anas formosa is an occasional visitor hidden in the flocks
of Common Teal Anas crecca and Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata.
The Kuan-du Nature Park and Yangmingshan National Park are
also easily combined into one visit by public transport from Taipei.
Kuan-du (Kuantu) Nature Park (IBA3) is a 55 hectare area of reedbed,
open pools and mangrove at the confluence of the Tansui and Keelung Rivers.
Almost 300 species have been recorded including Oriental Stork Ciconia
boyciana, Chinese Egret, and Black-faced Spoonbill. It is also good
for Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax, Oriental
Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis, Bright-headed Cisticola Cisticola
exilis, Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis and Vinous-throated
Parrotbill Paradoxornis webbianus, whilst buntings, falcons and
harriers may be seen in winter. There is an excellent visitor centre.
From the TRS take the MRT Danshui line north to Kuandu station; the park
is an easy walk from here. If going on to Yangmingshan, return to the
MRT and continue to Shilin Station, take bus no.260 from here to the
terminus (direct from TRS the journey time is about 70 minutes).
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Swinhoe's
Pheasant
(Wen-Hsin
Huang) |
The 11,000
hectare Yangmingshan National Park has an altitudinal range of 2501,000
m. It is famous for its geothermal springs. The area has
suffered human encroachment from the earliest times and the forest
cover is mainly secondary growth. There are seven short birdwatching
trails
and some 110 species have been recorded in the park, including the
two endemic species found in low-altitude forest, the sometimes elusive
Taiwan
Blue Magpie Urocissa caerulea and the Taiwan Whistling Thrush Myophonus
insularis. The magpies are mainly found in mobile flocks in the
forest, often with regular roosting sites; the main habitat of the
whistling
thrushes is around streams, and they defend established territories.
Other species of interest to the first-time visitor include Chinese
Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola thoracica, Black-browed Barbet Megalaima
oorti, Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela, Grey Treepie,
Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler Cettia fortipes, Streak-breasted
Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis, Rufous-capped
Babbler Stachyris ruficeps, Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus and
Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus.
Those with their own transport may combine a half-day at Kuan-du or
Yangminsghan with a visit to Yehlui (Yieliu, Yehliao or Yehliou),
a 2 km long promontory on Taiwans north coast jutting into the sea in
a north-easterly direction (IBA1). Yehlui town is about 12 km north of
Keelung, well signposted from Highway 2. The site is of particular interest
during MarchMay as it is the best place to sea-watch and find rarities
during the northbound migration. More than 300 species have been recorded
over a ten-year period.
Two other options whilst in Taipei are Kuanyinshan (Guan-yin
Mountain) for raptor watching in spring (see Raptor watching in Taiwan)
and Wulai, good for low-altitude forest species. Wulai
lies south of Taipei at the northern extremity of the Syueshan range,
the altitude being around 200 m rising to 1,000 m. The birdwatching trail,
a 7 km round trip taking up to four hours, follows the Tunghou River.
On one side of the trail there are steep mountain slopes clad with virgin
forests, on the other low-elevation secondary forests, abandoned houses
and a cemetery. Take a Sindian Co bus to Wulai from the TRS and get off
at the terminus. The journey time is about 90 minutes. Low-altitude forest
species found here include Taiwan Blue Magpie, Taiwan Whistling Thrush,
Crested Serpent Eagle, White-bellied Green Pigeon Treron sieboldii,
Black-browed Barbet, Black Bulbul, Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis
fuliginosus, Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri, Grey-cheeked
Fulvetta Alcippe morrisonia, Dusky Fulvetta Alcippe brunnea,
Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus, Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii,
and Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris. The area is busy
at weekends. Overnight accommodation is available. Note, food is only
available near the bus terminus.
In search of the high-altitude specialists
The high-montane alpine zone in Taiwan lies above about 3,200 m,
and two sites stand out as the best places to see the high-altitude specialists, Yushan (Jade
Mountain) and Hohuanshan (Mt. Hohuan). Nantou
Countys Yushan National Park is a magnificent remote area with
high-altitude coniferous forests Tsuga chinensis formosana, and
alpine prairies mainly composed of dwarf bamboo Yushania niitakayamensis and
the grass Miscanthus transmorrisonensis, but several days are
needed to be sure of seeing the important species; it also lacks facilities.
Visitors should be prepared to hike and camp in cool conditions (typical
daytime
temperature 15°C). If time is short, visit the Tatajia (Tatachia) Recreational
Area (2,400-2,800 m) where there is a 10 km birdwatching trail. There
is no public transport to the park; by car take the Expressway south
from
Taipei to Chiayi and take the road to Chungpu (Jhongpu). There take Highway
18 to Alishan (Chaoping) and continue to the Tatajia Tourist Centre.
The 50 km trip from Chiayi takes about two hours. Accommodation is available
in the Dongpu (Tongpu) area (contact the Yushan National Park Administration
at 886-4-9773121); meals should be booked at the same time.
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Golden
Parrotbill
(Shen-Hueui Lin) |
Highway 14,
the mountain road from Puli and Wushe to the east coast, reaches its
summit the Wuling Pass (3,300 m) at Hohuanshan, before
descending to Tayuling (Dayuling), and continuing via the spectacular
Taroko Gorge to Hualien. Roadside birdwatching on the pass is very
productive and although there is accommodation nearby many visitors
stay nearer
Wushe to order to make early morning forays in search of the endemic
pheasants. White-whiskered (Taiwan) Laughing-thrush Garrulax
morrisonianus, Taiwan Bush Warbler Bradypterus alishanensis,
Yellow-bellied Bush Warbler Cettia acanthizoides, Golden Parrotbill Paradoxornis
nipalensis, Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris, Winter Wren Troglodytes
troglodytes and Vinaceous Rosefinch Carpodacus vinaceus may
be found near the head of the pass and the summit car park usually
produces some of these species. Flamecrest Regulus goodfellowi and
Coal Tit Parus ater may be found in any of the roadside stands
of tall pines. Public transport is sparse, but the Kuo-Kang bus company
operates
from Hualien to Tayuling (about four hours). Accommodation is available
in Tayuling and reservations for the Mt. Hohuan Lodge can be made (contact
the Forestry Bureau, Dongshih Forest Administration, at 886-4-5150855).
Parts of Highway 14 are narrow and steep, and landslides may occur
in wet weather, particularly during the typhoon season. Driving on
this
road is hazardous in fog, rain and high winds. Snow may be encountered
at high level in winter.
Mid-altitude mountain forests the world of Taiwan's endemic birds
Taiwans temperate-zone mixed coniferous broadleaf forests lie between
2,000 and 3,000 m. The rainfall and humidity are higher than at lower
levels, the
forests are luxuriant, and the biological diversity is high. Birdwatching
is good at any time of year, but landslips after heavy rain can block
mountain
roads and restrict access in the typhoon season. There are two excellent
areas that offer opportunities to see the endemic Phasianidae and
the majority of
the other endemic species; only Taiwan Blue Magpie and Styan's Bulbul Pycnonotus
taivanus do not occur in the Central Mountains. Taichung Countys Anmashan (Dasyueshan
Big Snow Mountain Recreation Area), altitude 2,0002,600 m, is regarded as
one of Taiwans best birdwatching sites, whilst a visit to the forest trails
off
Highway 14 between Meifeng and Tsuifeng in Nantou County
presents opportunities to see the pheasants between Wushe and Wuling Pass
(see above). There is no public transport to Anmashan; from Taipei
take Freeway 1 and leave by the Fengyuan (Fongyuan) exit before Taichung,
then take Highway
3 from Fengyuan to Tungshih (Dongshih). In Tungshih care is needed at the
junction of Highway 3 and Highway 8 to find the road to Dasyueshan National
Forest Recreation
Area. It is about 50 km from Tungshih to the end of this road, the main entrance
being reached at about km 34, and the accommodation (Anmashan Mountain Hostel)
is situated at about km 44. (Reservations advised, contact Dasyueshan Forest
Recreation Area 886-4-25877901). Three forest trails are recommended, trail
210 just beyond km 35, trail 220 just before km 39 and trail 230 that starts
from the car park and cafe near the end of the road at km 50.
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Yellow Tit
(Chieh Wen Huang) |
About
80 species have been recorded including the difficult species (Taiwan Partridge Arborophila
crudigularis, Swinhoe's Pheasant Lophura swinhoii, Mikado Pheasant Syrmaticus
mikado, and Yellow Tit Parus holsti), other endemics, and good
species such as White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana, Vivid
Niltava Niltava
vivida, Grey-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythaca, Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma,
White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos, Eurasian Jay Garrulus
glandarius, and Eurasian Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes. It
is also a reliable site for White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis and
Rusty Laughingthrush G. poecilorhynchus.
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